Panerai

The history of Officine Panerai, an Italian luxury watch manufacturer, stretches all the way back to 1860. However, their watches first became available to the public over 130 years later in 1993. Up until then, this Florentine company was a supplier for the Royal Italian Navy and very secretive about their products.

Today, Panerai creates some of the industry's most highly coveted timepieces. Cushion-shaped cases and massive sizes of 47 mm and above lend these watches a rather masculine feel and make them truly unmistakable. The dials are always tidy and easy to read under all lighting conditions thanks to luminous hands and indices.

The Radiomir and Luminor collections get their inspiration from historical models from the 1930s, 40s, and 50s. On the other hand, the diving watches of the Submersible series pair retro details with modern design and generally appeal to younger audiences.

Panerai has been equipping certain models with in-house calibers since 2005. These movements are produced at the company's facilities in Neuchâtel, Switzerland and vary in their complications. Some calibers feature a second time zone, double chronograph, tourbillon, or minute repeater. What's more, many of these movements boast an astonishing 10-day power reserve. All watches from before 2005 are powered by calibers from different ébauche suppliers, such as ETA.

The Radiomir was the very first Panerai watch. The company began producing models for the Italian Navy all the way back in 1936. Its name comes from the luminous material patented by Panerai in 1916. This material is based on radium, a radioactive element.

This timepiece's design has changed very little since its introduction. It still has a cushion-shaped case, tidy dial, two hands, and luminous indices and numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. The different models range from 42 to 49 mm in diameter. Most are made of stainless steel. However, there are a few rose gold Radiomir watches, such as the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso with a California dial. This type of dial has hours marked by Roman numerals on its upper half and Arabic numerals on the lower half. You can also choose from various complications, including a small seconds, power reserve indicator, or GMT function.

The collection's top model is the Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT . This 49-mm rose gold watch is only produced upon customer request and displays the time in two time zones using a central set of hands. By activating the push-piece on the case at 8 o'clock, you can also hear the time in either time zone thanks to a series of chimes. A sapphire glass case back offers a view of the intricately skeletonized in-house caliber P.2500/MR at work. A price is hard to nail down since clients can customize their timepieces. However, this watch generally costs around 395,000 USD.

Entry-level models, such as the Radiomir Base Logo and Radiomir Black Seal Logo, sell for between 3,400 and 3,900 USD. If you'd prefer a watch with a second time zone, be prepared to spend anywhere from 9,300 to 13,000 USD. Prices for a Radiomir with a gold case fall between 14,000 and 17,500 USD.

The Luminor Due is an elegant take on the classic Luminor. Its flatter case makes it a fantastic sporty dress watch. At 38 to 45 mm in diameter, there are also plenty of options for smaller wrists. The three-hand models with a small seconds dial at 9 o'clock are available in stainless steel or rose gold. Alligator leather straps hold these timepieces securely on the wrist.

Depending on the size, plan to spend between 5,100 and 8,300 USD for a stainless steel model. The gold editions are much more expensive, at 12,000 to 20,500 USD.

Panerai dates back to 1860 when Giovanni Panerai opened a small watchmaking workshop and school in Florence, Italy. However, because all original documents from this time were destroyed in a flood in 1966, it's difficult to reconstruct the company's exact history. What we do know is that the company's sign bore the words Orologeria Svizzera (Swiss watchmaking) in the early 20th century.

Initially, the company focused on importing and selling Swiss watches from companies like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex. In order to keep import taxes as low as possible, the watches were delivered disassembled. Once the components reached the workshop, they were reassembled and adjusted by professionals who had trained at Panerai's watchmaking school. The brand's customers included prominent, rich Florentines as well as the Italian royal family.

Large and distinctive luxury timepieces define Panerai. Their consistent designs and unique crown-protecting bridge have transcended generations and are immediately recognizable to any watch enthusiast. These watches further impress with their functionality and easy-to-read dials. They were designed to meet military standards and demands; more recently, action stars like Sylvester Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenegger have helped these watches achieve cult status. The company received new financial resources after joining the Richemont Group in 1997. Thanks to these funds, doors were opened to new marketing and technological possibilities. This eventually led to the creation of Panerai's first in-house calibers. Today, Radiomir and Luminor are no longer pure military watches: They're beloved by city dwellers, creative minds, star cooks, and managers of all kinds.