Rolex GMT-Master

The Rolex GMT-Master II has a practical feature not found on "normal" GMT-Masters: Its hour hand can be set independent of the other hands. This makes setting the local time much easier and makes it possible to display a third time zone. Even so, the GMT-Master II is not necessarily more expensive. You can buy a first generation model from the 80s, also known as the "Fat Lady" (ref. 16760), for around 9,900 USD. At about 9,000 USD, its successor with the reference number 16710 is even less expensive. The current Rolex GMT-Master II with a black ceramic bezel and the reference number 116710LN goes for a relatively affordable 8,400 USD pre-owned and almost 9,600 USD in mint condition. The value of these watches has remained stable over time.

The so-called "Rolex Batman" with a blue and black bezel and the reference number 116710BLNR is one of the most hotly sought-after GMT-Master models. Never-worn examples cost almost 11,000 USD, which is above the list price. In fact, this stainless steel watch is so popular that long wait times are par for the course when buying from offline retailers. A highlight of the current collection is the "Pepsi" version, which is listed under the reference numbers 116719BLRO (white gold) and 126710BLRO (stainless steel) . The latter was first announced at Baselworld 2018 with a Jubilee bracelet, the caliber 3285, and a list price of 9,200 USD. Expect to pay around 32,600 USD for the white gold model. Pre-owned pieces cost about 2,500 USD less. Considering this model of the Rolex Pepsi has a list price of almost 43,200 USD, you can get quite a good deal shopping on Chrono24 and will save almost 25% off the official list price. The version in 18-karat yellow gold only costs 28,000 USD, though it features a black bezel with gold markers. The list price for this model comes in at over 36,900 USD.

The bicolor editions in stainless steel and 18-karat gold are only slightly more expensive than the stainless steel models. They are truly a good bargain, considering how much watch you get for the money. You can purchase a never-worn Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116713LN for 12,100 USD, while a pre-owned model costs only 10,700 USD. Those who like a bit of 80s style will find the perfect companion in one of these stainless steel and gold bicolor watches.

The GMT-Master has been on the arms of pilots and world travelers for over 60 years. Its story began in 1955, when Rolex introduced the four-handed timepiece for the first time. Rolex had received a request from Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) to develop a watch with a second time zone. Pan Am made the GMT-Master their official watch. Flight crews received models with black dials, while the ground staff's watches had white dials.

Rolex had already designed a watch featuring 24 time zones all the way back in the mid-1940s. However, for the first GMT-Master with the reference number 6542, they stuck to a two-time-zone construction, as requested by Pan Am. This resulted in a tidy and unmistakable watch. What was its trick? An additional hour hand made one full rotation per day and pointed to the corresponding time on a 24-hour bezel. The bezel could be set so that the red 24-hour hand displayed the current time back home.

The GMT-Master II joined the Rolex family in the early 1980s. The watch with reference number 16760 featured sapphire glass and a red/black bezel, which gave it its nickname: Rolex Coke. Its new caliber, the 3085, was also notable. This movement allows the wearer to independently set the hour hand when the crown is pulled out halfway. In this crown position, the wearer can also set the date. The minute hand and second 24-hour hand can be set when the crown is pulled out completely. Previously, moving the bezel in both directions was the only way to set the time back home, for example. Due to its large, thick case, the watch earned the nickname "Fat Lady." As the first GMT-Master II, the watch is very popular with collectors.

The watch was refined in 2007, though the design remained faithful to the classic Rolex look. This dedication to classic aesthetics is part of their key to success. One of the most obvious changes was the black ceramic bezel. In comparison to the metal bezel used on earlier models, it is much more scratch resistant.

In 2013, Rolex reintroduced bicolor black/blue models. Another new detail was the Triplock winding crown with three sealed zones to improve water resistance. The Rolex caliber 3186 now powers the watch. Like all Rolex automatic movements, the 3186 meets the criteria set by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The movement features a blue Parachrom hairspring made from a zirconium-niobium alloy, a typical Rolex characteristic. It's unaffected by magnetic fields and is much more resistant to temperature variations and shocks than normal hairsprings. Thanks to the spring's upraised last coil and reduced curvature, the so-called Breguet overcoil, it can 'breathe' more freely, improving the watch's precision. High-precision regulation occurs via Microstella nuts on the balance rim instead of a regulator – another typical Rolex characteristic.

The GMT-Master has been accompanying pilots on their trips around the world for over 60 years. It was improved upon by the GMT-Master II, which has been available since the 1980s. Rolex originally developed this watch with a second time zone for the US airline Pan Am and their personnel. The watch's functionality, precision, and reliability also impressed many NASA astronauts. A few of them wore GMT-Masters on their Apollo missions, although the Omega Speedmaster Professional is the agency's official watch. The GMT-Master has developed into a coveted collector's item over the years, and Rolex watches are generally stable investments. Celebrities and heads of state have contributed to the watch's reputation and raised it to cult status.