Rolex GMT-Master

Rolex released the first GMT-Master in 1955. Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) commissioned the Genevan manufacturer to produce a timepiece that would enable their pilots and flight attendants on transatlantic flights to track the time back home as well as the time at their destination. Over the next 44 years, Rolex would produce numerous models with only slight deviations from the original design.

Each timepiece displays the additional timezone using a second hour hand, which makes a full rotation once a day, and a bidirectional 24-hour bezel. This feature makes the watch perfect for businesspeople, politicians, and pilots traveling long distances across time zones.

The very first model, the ref. 6542, is especially rare. Rolex only produced this timepiece until 1959. It has a Bakelite bezel, which was replaced by aluminum in subsequent editions. Prices for well-maintained watches sit in the mid-five-figure range. Later models like the 1675 are also more popular than ever and increasing rapidly in value. The last GMT-Master ever produced, the ref. 16700, and the ref. 16710 are the most affordable entry points into the world of classic GMT-Masters.

Today, most variants are coveted collector's items. Limited supply and high demand continue to drive their prices upward. Furthermore, the GMT-Master was a favorite of TV and film heroes. The watch made its big breakthrough in the 1964 James Bond flick "Goldfinger." Tom Selleck also wore a Rolex GMT-Master with a blue and red Pepsi bezel in his role as Magnum, P.I.

The earliest GMT-Masters bear the reference number 6542 and use the caliber 1036. These timepieces are rare and, therefore, expensive. Prices range from 29,000 to 120,000 USD depending on the watch's condition, history, and accessories. Such prices were unthinkable for this reference only a few years ago.

Its successor, the 1675, had a production run of around 20 years and is, thus, much easier to find. This model gets its power from the Rolex caliber 1565, which ticks at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph). Prices for this timepiece have also increased significantly in recent years. Today, a pre-owned 1675 costs about 18,500 USD, while mint-condition pieces can demand well over 35,000 USD. By comparison, the average price for this reference sat at only 14,000 USD in 2018.

Rolex manufactured the reference 16750 between 1979 and 1988. Its power comes from the caliber 3075. Unlike the previous movement, this caliber oscillates at the now-conventional rate of 28,800 vph. Another upgrade came in the form of the case, which went from a water resistance of 50 m (5 bar, 164 ft) to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft), making it the first GMT-Master that was suitable for swimming. Plan to spend about 17,000 USD on a ref. 16750 in excellent condition. Used watches in good condition change hands for roughly 14,500 USD. Back in 2018, the same watch cost around 10,500 USD in very good condition.

The GMT-Master ref. 16700 saw Rolex make the switch to scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Like its predecessor, this model boasts water resistance to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft). It is available with a Pepsi bezel, as well as a solid black bezel. The most recent editions feature indices filled with SuperLuminova, a luminous material that replaced the use of tritium. Inside the watch, you'll find the slightly modified caliber 3175.

Prices for this model are also on the rise. Well-maintained pieces now demand at least 16,500 USD – that's double what they cost only two years ago. Entry-level models with clear signs of wear have also increased in value, rising from 8,300 USD in 2018 to about 11,500 USD in 2020.

Exotic GMT-Masters: "Root Beer" and "Nipple Dial"

In addition to the stainless steel GMT-Master, Rolex also produced "exotic" versions in white or yellow gold and in a two-tone gold and stainless steel design. One example of a two-tone watch is the ref. 16753. This model features a gold bezel with a golden brown aluminum inlay. Gold is also used for the indices on the glossy brown dial. Fans quickly dubbed this color combination "Root Beer." A two-tone Jubilee bracelet completes the watch's retro look.

One famous Root Beer wearer is none other than actor Clint Eastwood, who has worn his timepiece both on and off the silver screen. Be sure to have around 13,000 USD on hand to call one of these unique watches your own.

Both the Root Beer and other gold GMT-Masters are available with a so-called "nipple dial." This type of dial has smaller gold indices that protrude more than on other editions. The ref. 16758 is one such timepiece. Its bracelet and case are made of yellow gold, while its aluminum bezel inlay is black and has golden hour markers. As for the dial, you can choose from black or brown. This model exudes the unmistakable retro charm of the 1980s and costs about 23,500 USD pre-owned.

The GMT-Master II joined the Rolex family in the early 1980s. The original watch with the reference number 16760 features sapphire crystal and a red and black bezel. Thanks to this color scheme, this model is also known as the {keyword-rolex coke,Rolex Coke}. It comes with the then-new caliber 3085. This movement enables the wearer to independently adjust the hour hand, making it easier to set the local time. Previously, rotating the bidirectional bezel was the only way to set the time back home. Due to its large, thick case, the watch earned the nickname "Fat Lady." As the first GMT-Master II, the watch is very popular with collectors. Today, a used "Fat Lady" requires an investment of some 14,000 USD.

Its successor, the ref. 16710, demands around 12,000 USD in similar condition. If you're looking for a never-worn watch, be prepared to spend several thousand dollars more in both cases.

Rolex upgraded the GMT-Master II in 2007, resulting in the ref. 116710LN. Two of the most obvious changes were the black ceramic bezel and weightier Oyster case, also known as the "maxi case." However, the designers remained faithful to the overall classic Rolex look. This dedication to consistent aesthetics plays a key role in this Swiss luxury watch company's long-standing success.

The manufacturer ceased production of this GMT-Master II in 2019, causing its prices to skyrocket. Back in 2018, you could find this model selling for between 8,000 and 8,900 USD. Today, pre-owned pieces go for about 12,000 USD, while mint-condition watches can cost over 14,000 USD.

The Rolex Batman (ref. 116710BLNR) with a blue and black bezel is one of the most highly sought-after GMT-Master models. Rolex only produced this particular reference from 2014 to 2019, and many collectors are keen to get their hands on one. Prices for the same never-worn timepiece rose from 10,500 USD in 2018 to more than 17,000 USD in 2020. Used Rolex Batman watches sell for roughly 15,500 USD.

While 2019 saw the retirement of the original Batman, it also marked the introduction of its predecessor, the ref. 126710BLNR. This timepiece is largely identical to its successor but comes on a Jubilee bracelet. Rolex also decided to change the caliber from the 3186 to the in-house caliber 3285. This movement has a longer, 70-hour power reserve.

The 126710BLNR has a list price of only 8,800 CHF (approx. 9,700 USD). However, like the 116710BLNR, the current model is extremely popular and comes with long wait times at offline retailers. If you'd prefer not to wait for the latest Rolex Batman, you should expect a significantly higher price tag of around 17,000 USD regardless of its condition.

In 2018, Rolex presented the ref. 126719BLRO, a GMT-Master II with a Pepsi bezel, blue dial, and the caliber 3285. Due to its white gold case, this model costs between 36,500 and 40,000 USD. The next year, they announced that they were ceasing production of all GMT-Master II models with black bezels. At the same time, they launched the new Batman and another new edition with a red and blue ceramic Pepsi bezel.

While the 126719BLRO from 2019 has the same reference number and white gold case as the 2018 model, it is not the same watch. It features a stunning meteorite dial that Rolex claims comes from the center of an asteroid or perhaps even an exploded planet. You can purchase this GMT-Master II for about 48,000 USD new and 44,000 USD pre-owned.

If you can do without a cosmic dial and stainless steel case, you may prefer the stainless steel edition. Rolex introduced the ref. 126710BLRO in 2018. Instead of the usual Oyster bracelet, this model comes on a five-piece link Jubilee bracelet. From a technical perspective, this watch is identical to the rest of the collection. The only difference between this model and the stainless steel Batman is its bezel color and red GMT hand. Never-worn pieces sell for around 19,000 USD on Chrono24. Used watches demand similar prices. With a list price of "only" 8,800 CHF (approx. 9,700 USD), this timepiece has potential as an investment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XH_WxFp-cTI Rolex GMT-Master | Here’s What You NEED To Know – Chrono24 Review

A Variety of Designs: Various Bezels and Other Features

The original GMT-Master came with a blue and red bezel, earning it the nickname "Pepsi Watch." Later, Rolex also began producing black and red ("Coke") and all-black versions. The two-tone bezel symbolizes day (red) and night (blue or black). Three central hands displayed the local time's hours, minutes, and seconds. The very first GMT-Master had a plastic bezel with a Bakelite inlay. Bakelite is a type of plastic developed by Leo Hendrik Baekeland. Rolex chose this material for its anti-reflective properties. However, it could not adequately withstand the strains and temperatures of the cockpit. Therefore, it was soon replaced with an aluminum inlay. Models with Bakelite bezels are incredibly rare and treasured by collectors today.

Like the Submariner from 1953, the original GMT-Master lacked a crown guard. The Cyclops lens for the date display was optional, and the watch was water-resistant to 50 m (5 bar, 164 ft). In 1960, the second generation of GMT-Masters (ref. 1675) replaced the first. You can recognize these newer models by their crown guards and larger bezels.

The watch with reference number 16750 succeeded the 1675 series in 1981. With this new model, Rolex began using their new in-house caliber 3075 instead of the previous 1565 and 1575 calibers. Since Rolex only produced this reference until 1988, it is very rare and popular among collectors today. Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal was another improvement, taking over from scratch-prone plexiglass. The final GMT-Master bears the reference number 16700 and is powered by the caliber 3175. Towards the end of the 1990s, Rolex began using SuperLuminova instead of tritium to illuminate their dials. A short time later, the company ended production of the GMT-Master altogether. Since then, they have exclusively produced the GMT-Master II.

The GMT-Master has been gracing the arms of pilots and world travelers for over 60 years. Its story began in 1955 when Rolex introduced their first four-handed timepiece. Rolex had previously received a request from Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) to develop a watch with a second time zone. Pan Am made the GMT-Master their official watch. Flight crews received models with black dials, while the ground staff's watches had white dials.

Rolex had already designed a watch featuring 24 time zones back in the mid-1940s. However, they stuck to the two time zones requested by Pan Am for the first GMT-Master (ref. 6542). This resulted in a tidy and unmistakable watch. It works using an additional hour hand that makes one full rotation per day and points to the corresponding time on a 24-hour bezel. The wearer can set the bezel so that the red 24-hour hand displays the time back home.