The sun was shining, and the heat was on as more than 52 watch brands flexed their muscles during this year’s Geneva Watch Days. Some models weren’t new, but they were still highly attractive reminders of the contemporary collections from the exhibiting brands. These watches are a gentle reminder that mechanical timepieces are here to stay, regardless of current trends. This point was underscored by the presence of 1,500 watchmaking professionals, 250 retailers from around the world, and over 650 media representatives attending the show.
As always, a few brands stood out and left a strong impression on me. Let’s start with my first favorite:
Berneron Mirage
The Berneron Mirage defies convention—it’s neither round, square, cushion-shaped, nor rectangular. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen, even when compared to the iconic Cartier Crash. There’s a distinct charm in Berneron’s designs, but don’t let the creative or “drunken” shape fool you. Beneath the fascinating case shape lies a highly sophisticated movement—and it didn’t come cheap. “I spent all my savings, all CHF 750,000 of them,” Sylvain Berneron, the brand’s owner, confided to me on the final day of Geneva Watch Days.
The Mirage Sienna and Prussian Blue models from the A-series, each limited to 12 pieces, are the first shaped watches whose asymmetry stems from the caliber itself rather than an external design. The manual-wind movement deviates from the conventional round form, blending elegance with cutting-edge performance.
Upon examining the movement of the CHF 59,000 Mirage, you’ll notice that the main plate mirrors the case’s shape. At first glance, the components may seem typical, but not quite. “The idea of a shaped movement arose from my frustration with other companies and the overwhelming dominance of round watches. So, I sketched out my ideal gear train,” explained Berneron.
He admitted to spending perhaps too much time perfecting the font for the numerals, of which only three appear in this collection. “I have terrible handwriting,” Sylvain confessed when I asked about the logotype. “It’s actually my wife’s handwriting,” he added with a smile.
Sylvain is just getting started. His early steps in launching his own collection are more than impressive. Mark this moment as the first time you encountered his timepieces—his unique creations have a bright and exciting future ahead, with a small team of only five people.
Daniel Roth Tourbillon
As someone who appreciates the trend of shaped watches, I must admit a special fondness for the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in the warm hue of 5N rose gold, presented at Geneva Watch Days this year. The brand, acquired by Bvlgari in July 2000, has garnered great attention since its revival last year with the launch of the Tourbillon Souscription in yellow gold, offered in just 20 pieces.
This year’s 38.6 x 35.5 mm Tourbillon features a stunning guilloché en ligne dial, whereas last year’s model showcased a Clous de Paris pattern. Both watches are inspired by the original tourbillon C187, designed by Daniel Roth himself. The movement, cal. DR0001, was designed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps and is visible from both the front and back. Supervised by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the craftsmanship behind this beautiful movement and watch is undeniable.
The rich details of this Daniel Roth Tourbillon in Rose Gold come with a price tag of €155,000, slightly higher than last year’s release. However, this year’s model will be produced in a run of 50 pieces.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Sandstone
Having been a fan of Laurent Ferrier for many years, I was eagerly anticipating their presentation. As an independent watch brand, LF isn’t known for unveiling a wide range of new models. Instead, they introduced a single new piece: the Classic Auto Sandstone, featuring the same date aperture seen on the Sport Auto.
True to its name, the Classic Auto is a quintessentially classic watch, and I wouldn’t have expected a date aperture to suit its design. Nevertheless, it complements the overall look remarkably well, showcasing the exceptional design expertise at the small Plan-les-Ouates manufacture.
Meeting Christian Ferrier, the son of the founder and a master watchmaker, and seeing his satisfaction with the result only added to the appeal of this watch.
This CHF 50,000 novelty is powered by the automatic micro-rotor cal. LF270.01, which boasts a 72-hour power reserve—impressive, considering the use of a micro-rotor.
Breitling 140th Anniversary Models
As one of the founding brands of Geneva Watch Days, Breitling celebrated its 140th anniversary in grand style, presenting three remarkable new Perpetual Calendar Chronograph timepieces: the Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat. Each is limited to 140 pieces and priced at €55,000.
These three iconic models, each with an important place in Breitling’s history, now feature the new automatic Caliber B19—a movement based on the celebrated B01. The B19 offers high complications and an impressive 96-hour power reserve—a first for Breitling. The oscillating weight, visible through the caseback, is engraved with the original Montbrillant Breitling factory, adding an elegant detail to an already impressive movement.
To commemorate the milestone, Breitling also released a collector’s book featuring 140 stories from its pioneering history, underscoring the brand’s enduring significance—past, present, and future.
As a side note: considering the complexity of this three-year-in-the-making caliber, could it hint at what might fit the Universal Genève timepieces that many of us are eagerly awaiting?
Bvlgari Aluminium GMT x Fender Edition
Bvlgari, owned by the powerful LVMH conglomerate, is not only a jeweler—they’ve proven this for years. While Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani is known for sketching some of the finest jewelry in the world, he’s equally skilled when it comes to watches.
Fabrizio is the kind of guy who never leaves a pencil and blank sheet unused. His constant creativity reminds me of Gerald Genta, who, according to his widow, would sketch six or seven watches a day. Fabrizio matches that speed and creativity. Chapeau, my friend!
However, the Bvlgari Aluminium is not one of Fabrizio’s designs. It’s a descendant of the Gerald Genta-designed Bvlgari Diagono from 1988. When it launched in 1998, it made quite an impact with its aluminum middle case and rubber strap, adding a sporty, beachy touch.
The new generation of the Aluminium was introduced at Geneva Watch Days 2021 and has since gained significant attention with its 40 mm case and light-on-the-wrist feel. This year, Bvlgari partnered with American guitar maker Fender to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the legendary 1954 Stratocaster, using the guitar’s sleek lacquered dégradé look for the dial. The result is a striking Bvlgari Aluminium, further enhanced by a brown rubber bezel and a brown velcro fluorocarbon high-performance rubber strap, ensuring a comfortable fit.
This eye-catching model is priced at €4,600 and is limited to 1,200 pieces.
